There are many ways to use tulips and daffodils, so I hope you don't mind that I only mention my favorites. I've seen beds of mixed varieties which were very effective, but I prefer groups of the same type interspersed with small bulbs or low perennials. A section of twenty-or-so bulbs when using tulips; as little as ten for daffodils, create a focal point for the eye. In a former garden, I used a delicately colored group of "elegant lady" lily-flowered tulips, in creamy ivory blushed with rose, next to "blue ideal" hollandia iris (the fall-bulb type), surrounded with clouds of blue flax and footed with allyssum citrinum. I was very taken with this picture in late May.

One is always reminded to keep track of heights and bloom times; it is so disappointing to see a beautiful stand like "Mt. Hood" daffodils obliterated by the mistakenly placed taller partner. "Mt. Hood" is an old-fashioned, but truly lovely daffodil in cream-white. Another beautiful old variety is "Mrs. R. O. Backhouse", with a soft coral-pink cup. The whites and Pink cup daffodils show most effectively in a slightly shaded spot, just not too shady or they don't bloom.
If you have high shade of deep-rooted trees, or some smaller spring blooming trees such as redbud or dogwood, small groups of daffodils are naturalistic and picturesque. As long as you forego the mower, it is a beautiful landscape feature. Of course, when neatness counts, the late showing foliage of hostas is perfect to camouflage the ugly growing out phase of the daffodil. Please forget about braiding and rubber bands, unless you feel those knobs add an abstract art quality to your planting.

Miniature daffodils are quite easy to work with. They are as good as the the larger members of their family, just having smaller scale. "Tete-a`- tete" with iris reticulata among some interesting rocks is an idea to try. Yes, I tend to like the small and delicate effects of spring flowers, but when loud, proud, and gorgeous is wanted the "Red Emperor" tulip provides pomp and circumstance. As with most of my tulips, it is hard to keep a perennial stand, but the Red Emperor is a good red and isn't as short-lived as some of the other types of tulip.It is wonderful alongside the chalk white and deep green candytuft (iberis). The Greigii type of tulip tend to be perennial and "Cape Cod " is one of the best. Most are of short stature, but one named "Oriental Beauty " is very leggy. A quality better found in the sturdy upright Darwins, I think.
The approach for tulips is different than for daffodils. First consideration is color: daffodils will mix and match in sunrise, yellow and cream tints, so color is not an issue. Tulips, like lipsticks, are bright or light, anything from orange to lavendar, and of so many forms and intensities that it is like using a new paintbox. You can give your garden the face color you want- even clown makeup!

The safe and easy way to use tulips is in front of evergreens,at the foot of trees, or beside walks. They can be placed in blocks or drifts. The tulips are framed and no need to worry that after June the space is bare. It is a little trickier integrating them into a garden bed. I invariably slice some when working later in the season, and the areas they inhabit must have some late showing perennial to take their place. Tulip foliage is much better to deal with than daffodil, and some of the greigii type actually have nice striped leaves. Still, all will fade and disappear by Mid- June.

Tulip Growing Guide:

Grow in well-drained soil. Sandy soil enriched with organic matter is ideal. Space bulbs in the bed according to size. For eye-catching splashes of color, plant the bulbs in clusters rather than singly or in rows. For best effect, plant large bulbs 5-6 in. apart (4-5 per sq. ft.), and small bulbs 2-3 in. apart (8-10 per sq. ft.).

Many Tulips (the midseason and late-flowering varieties in particular) tend to bloom magnificently the first spring or two after planting and decline thereafter. Species Tulips, Darwin Hybrids, Fosterianas, Greigiis, Kaufmannianas, and WFF Perennial Tulips can put on a stunning display for several years.

To encourage a perennial show:

plant at the depth recommended on the plant label (or slightly deeper); we recommend you plant large bulbs 8-10 in. deep, smaller bulbs and species Tulips 5-6 in. deep.
remove blooms (on all but the Species Tulips) as soon as they fade to prevent the formation of seeds;
allow the leaves to yellow before removing them;
and fertilize in fall and early spring with any of our fertilizers specifically formulated for bulbs.
Tulips will also perform more reliably if they are not watered during their summer dormancy.
Most early and midseason Tulip varieties are excellent for forcing. Rooting time: 14–16 weeks.

Please note: An amber gel-like substance called gummosis is sometimes present on Tulip bulbs. It is not harmful and will not affect the bulbs’ performance.

Narcissus -- Daffodils Growing Guide:

Spacing: miniatures, 2-4"; species, 2-5"; all others, 5-6"
Depth: miniatures and species, 3-5"; all others, 5-7"
Full sun to part sun

Daffodils prefer full sun and well-drained soil. They will usually tolerate half-day shade, though some may produce fewer blooms. Cyclamineus hybrids such as 'Jack Snipe' and the Poeticus variety 'Actaea' tolerate shade and damp soil better than other Daffodils do. Red- and pink-cupped cultivars generally retain deeper color when planted in a location that receives protection from afternoon sun.

Plant bulbs 3-4 times their height deep-generally 6-8 in. for larger varieties, 4-6 in. for miniatures. Deep planting in light soil encourages perennialization. If your soil is heavy, try planting shallower than we recommend and making up the difference with a layer of mulch on top. Plant larger or bedding-size bulbs 5-6 in. apart (4-5 bulbs per sq. ft.), smaller or landscape-size ones 3-4 in. apart (5 bulbs per sq. ft.), and the miniatures 3-4 in. apart (10-15 bulbs per sq. ft.).