As most gardeners learn, sooner or
later: one persons flower fantasy is just
a free feast to some furry fiend.
Animal pest problems occur in all seasons of the
garden, but fall and spring are peak periods for
plunder. Luckily these seasons, and fall in particular,
are also the best times for beleaguered gardeners
to mount a defense against foraging four-legged
gourmands such as deer, squirrels, rabbits, voles,
moles and other assorted animal pests.
In fall, a good garden clean-up tops the list
of animal deterrents. After fall bulb planting,
remove planting debris to rob squirrels of scent
clues. (Its scent, after all, that guides
them to their hidden stashes -- and to yours!
Theyre not relying on such memory cues as
"three hops from the big tree on the left.")
Also consider mulch. Mulch is useful to help
retain soil moisture and maintain more constant
cool soil temperatures. Apply mulch after weather
turns cold. To mulch too soon only satisfies small
creatures, who find earth-warmed mulch a great
cozy place for winter tunneling and nesting.
The Enemy
Who is it exactly that is nibbling the nasturtiums
and devouring the daisies? Increasingly, in America,
the culprits are likely to be deer. According
to the New York Times "there are now more
deer in the U.S. than when the Pilgrims landed
in 1620." A population of 27 million ranges
across the land. And, increasingly, as the deers
natural habitats are reduced by development, they
are by no means restricted to remote woodlands.
Theyve leaped into our backyards in what
amounts in some parts of the country to a suburban
invasion.
Deer are the greatest threat in the spring when,
after a hungry winter, they look for anything
green, young and tasty.
Rabbits have long been the vegetable gardeners
nemesis, but theyre happy to taste-test
anything new and tender looking. Even if they
really dont love something, they just might
chew on it for awhile to make sure.
Squirrels and chipmunks are particular pests
at fall flower bulb
planting time. Count on them to promptly RSVP
to fall garden parties serving tulip, lily or
crocus bulbs -- but not daffodils which have a
terrible taste (hooray!). Especially popular are
gardens littered with bulb-scented debris (those
little bags, the papery skins, and other tantalizing
things). Yum, yum: just like a neon sign that
reads "Good Eats."
Special fans of tree and shrub roots are found
underground (where else!). Moles, voles and mice
are the biggest (actually smallish) culprits.
They also like roots of succulent plants and flower
bulbs.
The groundhog, also called the woodchuck, is
a tunnel master who finds any number of garden
plants appealing both above and below the ground.
What To Do About It All
To dispel any illusions at the outset: there
is no magic bullet for the animal pest problem
(save the sometimes tempting but not very humane
option of actually using bullets). The best one
can hope for is an "appropriate" pest
management solution. Pest control options basically
fall into five major categories:
- Barriers
- Sensory deterrents
- Vegetative deterrents
- Animal deterrents
- If you cant beat em, join em
Barriers
Barriers are the most straightforward and many
say the most effective deterrents. The strategy
is to make it impossible for the critter to get
to his dinner.
For deer, a fence is the best deterrent -- a
high one. A deer fence should be at least seven
and a half feet high, and an additional overhang
of chicken wire is a good idea. The most effective
deer fence is a double fence. Deer can either
jump something very high, or something very wide,
but cant do both at once. Two fences (one
high and one moderately high) spaced about three
feet apart are recommended. (Dont worry,
the deer see two fences and dont jump, so
they dont get caught inside.)
Garden centers and other retailers also carry
various types of plastic fencing and netting that
might be appropriate. It is also possible to have
an electric anti-deer fence installed. But this
isnt recommended for areas where there are
small children or close neighbors.
For groundhogs and such, fences dont need
to be high, they need to be deep. About three
feet deep should do the trick.
Chicken wire is another favorite barrier material.
This can be used to form a cage over young plants,
or an underground cage in which to protect bulbs
from burrowers. Its perfectly acceptable
to place a sheet of chicken wire right on top
of the planting. The bulbs will be smart enough
to find their way right through it.
Some people take a casual (but very effective)
approach when protecting bulbs from squirrels:
they just throw on an old window screen after
planting and take it up once the ground has settled
or frozen.
Sensory Deterrents
Of course with all the fencing and caging, some
people think the whole thing is too much, turning
the garden into an outdoor Alcatraz. So what else
is there?
Sensory deterrents seek to dissuade the unwanted
garden diner by offending his sense of smell or
taste or exciting his sense of fear and caution.
The use of cayenne pepper and such sprinkled
protectively on the ground is one method some
people say works. But others point out that this
method is exceedingly cruel. Squirrels, for example,
can easily get the pepper in their eyes while
trying to rid themselves of the noxious stuff.
Squirrels have been known to scratch out their
own eyes in the process.
Well its hard to hate a squirrel that much.
So other sensory alternatives are in order, ones
suitable for squirrels, other small creatures
and, of course, deer. These include:
Scattering clippings of human hair around the
place (not always a good idea in urban settings,
where squirrels may associate the smell of a human
with food hand-outs).
Predator smells, such as lions dung or urine
from the zoo, commercially available predator
scents, or even human urine (theres a guy
out there who swears by it, but we didnt
visit his garden to confirm).
Egg mixtures, either the commercially available
kind, or made up in your own kitchen. The idea
is, well, rotten eggs. You get the idea.
Irish Spring soap (Why this brand? Who knows?)
hung in little mesh bags around the edges of the
garden.
All of the sensory deterrents have their champions
and their detractors. Some swear by this one or
that one, some say theyre all a bust. Often
what works in one garden, doesnt in another.
Experimentation is the key -- and certainly worth
a try.
Vegetative Deterrents
The idea behind vegetative deterrents is to surround
the plants your nocturnal visitors like to eat
with ones they dont or find repellent.
Deer, for example, dont like thorny things.
They also dont eat anemones, astilbes, junipers,
foxgloves, daffodils, ferns, grasses and a whole
host of things. In fact there are enough things
that deer dont eat that you could build
a cordon around your garden. Sort of a garden
within a garden.
Fritillaria imperialis is also something deer
dont like and its strong skunky scent is
repellent to many other creatures as well, including
some humans.
Squirrels and other small creatures wont
eat daffodils or other narcissi bulbs. These are
good choices where pests are a problem.
Animal Deterrents
One could get very imaginative on the subject
of animaldeterrents, but why not just get a big
dog? Were not suggesting a "pit bull"
or an attack dog. Just a big, frisky fellow with
a loud bark. The idea is to scare the deer, not
hurt them.The animal shelters are full of good
candidates, who in return for your love and care
will bark their heads off in defense of your vegetation.
Be advised that the dog should be in a fenced
in back yard, or leashed on a line run. Many cities
and towns have leash laws which require this,
but its a good idea anyway. Domestic dogs
that roam free have been known to revert to their
primal instincts and to attack and kill lame deer
and fawns. As for guarding your garden, its
a case where the bark is better than the bite
- even a dog barking from the back porch will
do the trick.
If You Cant Beat Em, Join Em
One school of thought holds that if you feed
your animal friends first, theyll leave
your garden alone. Squirrel feeders and other
animal feeders are widely available. The idea
here is to make it so easy for them to eat that
ravaging your garden seems too much effort.
Some swear by this. But others point out that
by feeding the pest population, you encourage
them to swell their ranks.
In the end, each gardener has to find his or
her own answers. Theres really no one solution.
But take heart, though the sight of your ravaged
garden may make you want to unleash your more
violent nature, there may be another way.
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