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Pruning is not only a science
but an art. After pruning it should appear that
the shrub
and trees always looked that way, without any
external intervention. A bad hand at pruning could
give it a look like a bad day at the barber's.
Proper pruning can enhance the look of the tree
or shrub
while improper pruning can ruin its growing potential.
Pruning shrubs
can be done at any time of the year, but some
thumb rules can be followed. Pruning deciduous
trees and shrubs in the winter will enhance their
growth in the spring. Conversely if they are pruned
in summer, it grows slowly the following spring.
Winter pruning is advised for young deciduous
trees
and shrubs, and fruit trees to help them grow
more robustly. Summer pruning is recommended for
mature deciduous trees and shrubs to slow down
their growth and ageing. However, for most shrubs
the time and rate of pruning is learnt primarily
through trial and error.
So why do we prune our shrubs?
Very often, they take up more space than what
is provided, and may encroach onto pathways or
get in the way of growth of another plant next
to it. These circumstances will call for some
intelligent pruning. We also need to prune to
remove dead wood and bark and also to promote
flowering and fruiting. Dead wood needs to be
removed as this forms a gateway for plant pathogens
such as bacteria and fungi. Care needs to be taken
that no live portion is damaged and so it is better
to leave half an inch of dead wood intact.
We also need to watch out for
undesirable conditions such as 'included bark'
and 'crossed branches'. Included branches occur
when two branches grow so close that they join
eventually. This area then dies weakening the
branch. The crossed branch condition also needs
to be rectified and the branch which is damaged
more is removed. Removal of crowded and weak stems
helps the plant to grow healthier.
Intelligent pruning calls for
minimum amount of cuts. Hence, a definite plan
needs to be followed. First all the dead, broken
and diseased branches need to be removed. Often
only this is enough and no more pruning is required.
The next step is to make training
cuts. There are two basic types of pruning cuts:
heading cuts, and thinning cuts. Heading cuts
stimulate growth of buds closest to the wound.
The direction in which the bud is facing determines
the direction of new growth. Thinning cuts remove
entire buds, twigs or braches at their point of
attachment. Heading cuts are used when the plant
needs shearing or topping. But this may severely
affect the structure and appearance of the plant.
Thinning cuts are preferred to give the tree
or shrub
a natural pruning effect.
Natural pruning or pruning to
maintain the natural shape of a shrub or tree
demands that you understand the size, form and
shape of the mature plant. Natural pruning also
maximizes flowering and fruits. Shearing, on the
other hand will remove the flowering and fruiting
buds totally and result in a green vegetative
stage of growth.
Pruning tools are important while
cutting and they need to be kept absolutely sharp.
The right sizes of tools also need to be considered.
There are several types of pruning shears available.
One needs to oil and clean them regularly, so
that plants do not get infected.
If you like artciles
about trees & shrubs....These pages might
also interest you:
Guide
to Conifers & Evergreens, How
to Prune Shrubs, Gardening
With Viburnum, Gingko
Trees, Growing
Magnolias, Japanese
Barbury, Katsura
Trees,Shrubs
as Garden Borders,The
Weeping Atlas Tree, Tough
Trees, Great
Birch Trees, Growing
Citrus Trees, How
to Prune Shrubs,How
to Start Seedlings, Lustrous
Abelia, Popular
Shrubs, Shrub
Winter Care Guide, Shrubs
With Berries, Summer
Hydrangeas
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